Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa was Sri Lanka's medieval capital, and its ruins remain remarkably legible nine centuries later: royal palaces, monastic colleges, image houses, and the sublime Gal Vihara, where four Buddha figures are carved from a single sweep of granite. Unlike many ancient sites, Polonnaruwa is compact and flat — most visitors explore it by bicycle, pedalling between monuments along shaded avenues where toque macaques watch from the trees.

The city's engineering is as impressive as its art. The Parakrama Samudra, a vast twelfth-century reservoir, still irrigates the surrounding rice country, and its bund makes a beautiful sunset walk. Come early, ride the loop slowly, and finish at Rankoth Vehera as the light turns gold on the brickwork.

We've walked the trails, paid the fees, and rated every guide. Below: how to get there, when to skip it, and what nearby places pair well — the kind of advice a local friend would give.